Another addition to the capsule wardrobe. This Butterick wrap dress #6054 is a Maggy London design, who is always good for something classic.
I wanted a more relaxed knit dress, so I opted to cut a size larger, GASP, than I measure in size. My rationale was that a bit more drape through the bodice would be more flattering. In theory, it was a good idea, but I probably should have cut the smaller size 10 top and graded up to the 12 on the bottom. Live and learn.
However, if the sizing creates a snug fit in the skirt, it causes the left front hem to rise to one side as you tie the wrap and you lose the even hem. So my plan did work for the skirt because the front of the dress hangs evenly.
As for fabric, I’m on a roll using what’s in my stash. This black and white polka dot ITY knit is opaque enough that no lining was needed. Hella easy to work with even though, per usual, I serged all seam allowances.
As for construction, it went pretty so smoothly until I hit the pleating on the right front. The directions here were Burda-esque, incomplete and vague. Sigh. But I was not going to be defeated, so I managed to genius it out. Here’s the gist of the process. First, let me say that you can wing it and ignore the instructions all together, or follow along:
1. Carefully mark all pleating as instructed, small circle, big circles and squares because they will have great meaning later. Usually a small basted “X” is sufficient for me, but here it matters. Pleat exactly as instructed. Here you see the bodice and skirt pleats.
3. Carefully mark the interfaced facing and lay on top of the front and belt, again being careful to match symbols. Because there are so many layers, I used my pointer turner to lift the presser foot for easier sewing.
6. Trim and turn. Here the belt is pressed out away from the dress.
IMO, this makes that pleating bulky and if I sew this again, I’ll devise a way to decrease the amount of folds. Here you can see the number of pleats along the left side. Though pretty I think some could be drafted out.
For the neckline, their method creates too much bulk. So I attached a double folded facing, pressed the facing away from the bodice and then top-stitched. I like the look of this much better.
Though I have my quibbles with some of the construction process, I love the dress and it’s comfortable. On to the next piece.