Hey Loves! Spring may be around the corner, but it’s still cold here…and this DIY over-sized coat is so necessary.
Double-breasted and tailored, coats like these are wardrobe staples. A can’t miss option. I’ve worn this literally everyday since I’ve made. You can slip this over just about anything, suits, jeans, loungewear. It has a simple shawl collar with raglan sleeves and near-invisible side pockets.
The pattern is the Oslo Coat from Tesstuti Fabrics. Difficulty level is intermediate, but for seasoned sewists, construction is a breeze. Full disclosure though, I did botch the lining but it was an oops I can live with.
I made this from a very heavy wool felt and lined with a basic bemberg in black. I tend to wear a lot black and liked the complimentary look. The density of the felt caused me to be cautious in seaming, but there were no major issues. I did have to pay careful attention to the pattern layout because there is a distinctive nap to the fabric.
Gorgeous as this fabric is, it was another one of my ridiculously amazing finds from G Street Fabric’s clearance room. Just $2.99/yard. The second I saw this felt years ago, I grabbed it with absolutely no plans in mind. I knew the right pattern would come along and so here we are! So, let’s get into the deets.
Construction/Alterations
- I lapped the back piece because of fabric, partially due to limited yardage and for structure.
- I chose to make a bound buttonhole and found a great how-to video. Below is a demonstration of the process. The bound buttonhole is constructed in the felt only. I sewed a regular buttonhole in the corresponding location in the lining that attached the lining to the bound buttonhole.
- I added raglan pads to build out the shoulder and make it more structured.
- The Tesstuti site has an excellent blog post on the hem and lining attachment. This is worth bookmarking because you’ll come across this technique again.
- Added a hanging chain seen here. I’ve got these listed in my Amazon Store in the “Sewing Tools” list.
Bound Buttonhole construction
Here is the finished coat and a better look at the fabric.
As you can see, the fit is roomy, but tailored. With just the single exterior button, and one interior button, it’s easy to throw on and go. Here is a view of the back. I have narrow hips so keep that in mind.
This is my second go-round with a shawl collared coat. A few years ago I made a pink “Scandal” coat and still wear it.
Thanks to hubby for the amazing golden hour pictures.
Onto the next look!
Cindy says
Buttonhole welts are *chef’s kiss.* What do you do with the lining–do you make another welt and line it up, or just a slit with the edges turned under?
Dei says
Hi Cindy. I made a regular buttonhole and then carefully hand-tacked it to the bound buttonhole. Great question!