Hey Loves! Spring may be around the corner, but it’s still cold here…and this DIY over-sized coat is so necessary.
Double-breasted and tailored, coats like these are wardrobe staples. A can’t miss option. I’ve worn this literally everyday since I’ve made. You can slip this over just about anything, suits, jeans, loungewear. It has a simple shawl collar with raglan sleeves and near-invisible side pockets.
The pattern is the Oslo Coat from Tesstuti Fabrics. Difficulty level is intermediate, but for seasoned sewists, construction is a breeze. Full disclosure though, I did botch the lining but it was an oops I can live with.
I made this from a very heavy wool felt and lined with a basic bemberg in black. I tend to wear a lot black and liked the complimentary look. The density of the felt caused me to be cautious in seaming, but there were no major issues. I did have to pay careful attention to the pattern layout because there is a distinctive nap to the fabric.
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Gorgeous as this fabric is, it was another one of my ridiculously amazing finds from G Street Fabric’s clearance room. Just $2.99/yard. The second I saw this felt years ago, I grabbed it with absolutely no plans in mind. I knew the right pattern would come along and so here we are! So, let’s get into the deets.
Construction/Alterations
- I lapped the back piece because of fabric, partially due to limited yardage and for structure.
- I chose to make a bound buttonhole and found a great how-to video. Below is a demonstration of the process. The bound buttonhole is constructed in the felt only. I sewed a regular buttonhole in the corresponding location in the lining that attached the lining to the bound buttonhole.
- I added raglan pads to build out the shoulder and make it more structured.
- The Tesstuti site has an excellent blog post on the hem and lining attachment. This is worth bookmarking because you’ll come across this technique again.
- Added a hanging chain seen here. I’ve got these listed in my Amazon Store in the “Sewing Tools” list.
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Bound Buttonhole construction
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Here is the finished coat and a better look at the fabric.
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As you can see, the fit is roomy, but tailored. With just the single exterior button, and one interior button, it’s easy to throw on and go. Here is a view of the back. I have narrow hips so keep that in mind.
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This is my second go-round with a shawl collared coat. A few years ago I made a pink “Scandal” coat and still wear it.
Thanks to hubby for the amazing golden hour pictures.
Onto the next look!
Buttonhole welts are *chef’s kiss.* What do you do with the lining–do you make another welt and line it up, or just a slit with the edges turned under?
Hi Cindy. I made a regular buttonhole and then carefully hand-tacked it to the bound buttonhole. Great question!