Wow, the world is swirling around and it’s a new reality. I think the last time I posted, Covid-19 was just poking its head up and causing havoc. Here we are two months later…and well…yea. I’m like a lot of sewing bloggers. I leave this space for sharing my creativity. My passion for a craft that brings me joy is spread all over this blog. I’m no socio-political pundit, as I leave the finessing of learned expression to those dedicated to the field.
BUT…I do have thoughts over what society bares upon us because quite frankly, I exist in this world as a Black woman, an educated one…who reads. It’s joke saying between me and a close friend because to say “you read” means that we consume information incessantly, we look at the fine print, we connect the dots, we remember what you forgot you said. So as the world seemingly begins to re-visit and embrace what systematic racism means and how deeply pervasive it is, I hope long after the novelty of awareness has worn off, that the passion to connect translates into a sustained fight for meaningful change. What that looks like for you, I can’t say. What that looks like for me means to be open about my experiences and to share them.
So let’s get into some sewing.
I’m glad it’s summer because I’ve been on a relentless, though undocumented, sewing streak. Covid confined me to my home office…and my sewing room, but I’ve made the most of it.
My theme for the season has been Pink and Green…with a dash of my beloved neutrals. You know the mix; black, beige and white. lol. But to my credit, color has been popping up in my DIY wardrobe. This dress I made about a few weeks ago and I’m happy to finally post about it! Why? Because it’s a versatile cutie from McCalls. The #LiviaMcCalls dress. M8084.
So my first thought when I saw the pattern cover photo was “Cute dress, but mmm, that it will need some tweaking”. I cut View B, size S, but anticipated some editing because Big 4 pattern drafting, IMO, has a lot of wearing ease. I saw immediately that the large keyhole opening and the fullness at the waist would overwhelm my figure without adjustments.
The fabric used is a very soft Tencel twill that I am learning is a more sustainable fabric option. Check out this great post by Seamwork that gives you some insight and fabric options. This particular one is from Style Maker fabrics in a melon pink. Exceptionally easy to sew with so let’s dive into the construction of this DIY dress and my usual alterations shenanigans.
Construction/Alterations
- 3″ inches were removed from the front skirt width to decrease some of the volume. This was done at the center front and a seam was added here and top-stitched.
- Taking advantage of the decrease in width of the skirt front allowed me to attach the two pieces of the bodice at the center front rather that leaving the large keyhole opening. It is now completely closed.
- Decreased the length of the skirt ruffle to decrease volume and top-stitched joining seam.
- 1 1/2″ inches were removed from the bodice front to decrease the volume as well. This was a tapered edit from the side seam and the center front which actually pulls the opening down a bit dropping it further down my chest than I would like.
- The sleeve front is two pieces rather than one. This was an accident as I changed my mind mid-construction and wanted the longer sleeve.
- The pockets and waist line seams were bound with self-made bias tape. You will see this bright paisley fabric as a bias tape in a couple of my garments.
- A center back seam was added to address gaping at the neck. Rather than a back bodice piece cut on the fold, I curved the new back seam towards the neck to make it lay against my back better.
Special Touches
Bias binding was created using this easy method. You can check out the tutorial here on my Instagram page. The fabric is a gorgeous paisley from my stash that I used on not only this dress, but a skirt and pair of pants. Hidden continuity. 🙂
The label is a recent purchase from Wunderlabel and I love the result. A little bling with gold thread.
Styling
You can see that I chose 3 different shoe options.
- The dressy flirty option: Snake Lace-up Heels from Lulu’s
- The “mom chic” option: Kira Slingback sandals from Tory Burch
- Casual option: Imo Slide from Bella Vita from Nordstrom
And of course my old faithful LV Lena bag I’ve had for years and break out in the summer to keep the leather clean. You can shop similar styles below.
Wrapping it up, this is a easy pattern that is stylish and cute. No fuss sewing if you behave and follow the instructions. lol.
Happy sewing! Happy shopping!
Leave a Reply