Hart’s Fabric, Jumpsuits

Well, I’ve jumped into the “guest blogging” pool to post some of my DIY style sewing. I’m finally taking this show on the road. O.k. maybe not on the road, but I’ve joined the ranks of sewists and style bloggers sharing their makes using fabric from some pretty great resources…in this case Harts Designer Fabric. They’ve got a brick-n-mortar in Santa Cruz, CA and their web store is amazing. Deadly to someone like me with a mighty fabric addiction. Lol.

So, I was given run of the place and chose from their selection of fantastic fabric AND patterns. Be still my heart I got to test both! Though I REALLY wanted to try my hand at some of their organic knits, I had a vision in mind because I chose Friday Pattern Company’s “Joni Jumpsuit”. This indie pattern company is new to me and I wanted to branch out beyond the big 4 and support a smaller “indie” pattern company, so game on with this little jumpsuit.

Per the pattern description:

The Joni Jumpsuit is designed for knit fabrics. It features tank straps that tie in back making them adjustable. The neckline comes to a slight ‘V’. The bodice is lined and features a back zipper. The wide pant legs are fitted at the hips and have optional patch pockets. The pattern can easily be modified to match any inseam or shortened to shorts.

Kinda playful, kinda sexy. As you can see, I can dress it up with heels or make it corporate chic with a white blazer.

If a garment has more than one face, then it’s time well spent behind the sewing machine. The tie in the back gives it a playful touch.

Now because ya girl was so excited about trying something new, I emailed the good people at Friday Pattern Company about fabric selection and they hollered right back. Ponte knit they said…and that’s what I shopped for.

Ok, so I love a good knit, but as for sewing with them…they’re not the stuff of my dreams. If a fabric could be considered temperamental, then knit fabrics are divas. Can’t really press them too much, the necklines can be wonkly, hems can curl and…blah,blah blah, but you get the point.

I went with the suggested ponte knit and thank you sweet Jesus this knit in the color “ocean” was a superstar. It behaved so well! Not challenging me in any way. It’s a deep aqua, very rich in color. It’s also buttery smooth but with just enough structure that it’s suitable for more tailored garments, like a blazer or pants.

Construction

As is customary, I took a few detours:
• A bust dart was added, not because of any pattern drafting issues; it was needed due to my size selection. I cut the top in a medium and the pant in a small, grading the top down to fit the pants. I followed diligently the pattern sizing, but I still shoulda went with the small.
• I basted all side seams including the top and pants. I then installed the zipper to finish including top-stitching. So by leaving the side seams basted, I addressed any fit issues there.
• The pattern instructions have you sew both the lining and outer layer of the top together to the pants. I opted to sew the outer layer first to the pants, install the back zipper, sew the lining to the zipper and then hand sew the lining over the intersecting pant-top seam resulting in a more polished look to the interior.

Alterations

• I did a hefty amount of tinkering to remove the excess at the sides of the top. The fit is still a little loose through the back, but that’s on me, not the pattern.
• As for the fabric, oh man it alone vindicated all knit fabrics. It did not bleed when I did a pre-wash, in cold water of course. It’s smooth and I see no pilling after handling it so far. No curling in the seam allowances though I did stay-stitch as the pattern suggested. In the close-up pictures you can see the texture of the fabric.

My thoughts on the Joni Jumpsuit pattern is that it’s a quick sew, but I caution when selecting a size. I have broad shoulders and below my shoulders blades, my back curves inward quite a bit and I try select sizing to suit that otherwise I will have a lot of excess fabric at the back. I think the top sizing with this pattern is a bit generous. Also, there were some missing pattern markings at the top where the strap attachment should be. Also, I had to adjust the shape of the top because it was a slightly awkward transition between the strap attachment and the top. Neither of these are game changers though.

A big “Thank You” to Harts Designer Fabric for inviting me to blog. Take a look through their site. Lots of good quilting, apparel and home decor fabric. First time I’ve ever seen kitchen toweling for sale. That alone is worth a visit, but I think my next venture will be into the organic fabric .

As always, on to the next project!